id fashion week

listening to: 'kashmir' - led zeppelin

so last week was id fashion week - unless you're from new zealand, you probably haven't even heard of it. it's held right here in dunedin (unfortunately i have never been able to go - tickets are a little out of my student price range haha). airnz new zealand fashion week is held in october, for the last 9 years id has followed on from the official new zealand fashion week.

dunedin is known for being a bit artsy, and it has a pretty solid reputation here in new zealand for having pretty sweet bands and other creative shiz. like some very very talented designers: tanya carlson, for one, is from dunedin and has consistently shown a collection. sadly though this was her final year... before moving north to auckland (gag). other designers who hit the runway - thought to be the longest in the world - this year include cherry cotton candy, nom*d, and keucke. plus a ton more, including capsule collections and also some students from otago polytech's fashion design degree. AND the guest designer this year was none other than adrian hailwood, whose label hailwood has branched out from his signature, adored t-shirts to full on womenswear (and menswear too!). the fact that the place-getters in the emerging designers award were from australia, new zealand and the netherlands of all places should show you how reputable this week is slowly becoming.

i'm super annoyed that the official website didn't have photos of the entire collections; only a review with one or two photos attached. POOR EFFORT. from what i've read and seen, online and in reviews in the otago daily times, the trends set at fashion week follow on from what is currently being shown worldwide. some key trends were:

40s-era silhouettes

inky indigo blue/purple hues including aubergine &violet

capes!

fusion between masculinity/femininity

equestrian-chic

plaid

grey, rather than the previously eponymous black (staple part of the dunedin palette)

fur stoles

although still retaining a tie to an avant-garde vibe so often associated with id - for example, sharn blackwell's 'freaks', which saw unexpected 3d silhouettes traipsing down the runway - the majority of it all was very wearable. this year the focus was on the tailoring, which was superb and illustrated how world-class our national fashion scene is becoming. my only criticism would be that now we need to start leading the trends, rather than following them. designers here have well and truly mastered their craft; but i think it's time to inject some innovation into the collections: new zealanders are always proud of the 'kiwi ingenuity' that runs through our veins, so it would be nice to see that reflected in our clothing. i'm not saying that kiwi designers follow trends to the letter: that is far from the truth. as shown at id, they use worldwide trends as a base and reinvent them according to their personal design asthetics. but it's time to up the ante in the innovation stakes.

to have a wee browse of what was on offer, go here. and let me know what you think of the new zealand fashion scene!!

awards season... for milan aw09

listening to: 'nine in the afternoon' - panic! at the disco

sombre. austere. sober. LIES.

in my opinion - and i'm pretty much an expert, so respec' - the adjectives being bandied around re: milan fashion week are so off base. yes, the sepia-toned hues being sent down the runways aren't as electric as colours seen in previous fashion weeks; but i think some people are missing the point. the return to tailoring, to classy autumnal dressing, is just a backlash to the stupid nu-rave that at one point seemed to take over the globe. trust me, if kids in new zealand are dressing like that, then it's a global phenomenon... we seem to pick up on trends long after everybody else.

there seems to be a real return to old school glamour, and it's definitely in response to things like 80s revival, where bold colours ruled the roost. in milan it's all about bright red lipstick and a structured sillohuette. and fur stoles galore... love it, but vintage or synthetic, people!! even shows such as blumarine and pucci, which didn't stray too far from their "signature" palettes, adopted more watercolour-like, washed out tones. i'd never heard of luisa beccaria - should i be embarassed to admit that? i'm not sure - but i loved the icy blue tones that also cropped up in her show.

everybody has been raving about miuccia prada's collection, and i'm going to jump on the bandwagon. AMAZING. the detailing is absolutely stunning, and a true example of just how beautiful fashion can be. i love the black lace paired with sprinklings of both ice blue and beige. despite being so detailed and potentially fussy, the look works because of the wearability of it all. those palettes are just so beautiful yet at the same time interesting - each would lighten up an otherwise uniteresting outfit. winter can just be such a drag - outfits have a tendancy to be bland. even if you absolutely adore fashion, sometimes when you're freezing cold and cranky it's just easier to put on an outfit as dull as the weather around you.

the detailing award: no surprise here... prada wins hands down. i'm not sure if that lace is handmade or machine made - either way, it's sheer intricacy can't be beat.

favourite print award: just cavalli's mini shift dress. the flamingo print wasn't only on the dress, but also extended to the sheer tights! i can see swarms of stylish girls pairing those tights with anything and everything.

colour palette award: missoni. oooh, i bet you all thought i was going to pick prada. sorry guys; missoni's mixes of mustard, beige, teal, grey, white, black, sage and charcoal are making me drool right now.

coat of the week award: the most amazing coat i have ever seen would have to be one from missoni. featuring the print that was reoccurent in their entire collection, it reminds me of one of those faux kimono's really tacky chainsmoking housewives with bleached blonde hair would have worn in the 70s. (runners up include a navy coat from alberta feretti and a large-collared soft grey one from pucci)

best layering award: it's a tie between alberta ferreti's rouched bronze & navy dress, paired with tights; and a chunky coat over a drapey dress, worn with tights and a scarf knotted just so at burberry prosum.

best fur award: fendi, for the cutest 3/4 length sleeved jacket, cinched at the waist of course.

daytime outfit award: another tie - an ice blue, cream, grey and white concotion by luisa beccaria; and a very innocent schoolgirl outfit consisting of cardigan, white shirt, skinny belt, and beige skirt from blumarine.

nightime outfit award: the slinkiest navy knee-length dress i've ever seen, by maurizio pecaroro.

favourite sillohuette: a a black top paired with a gorgeous olive tulip skirt by max mara.

overall collection award: missoni! i just loved it... top notch!!